If you’re going to segue from sharp suits into comfortable cardigans, at least Gareth Southgate has picked the very best. The England manager was photographed for this month’s GQ in a £3,325 Loro Piana cardigan (granted, he didn’t “pick” it, rather it was proffered by a stylist), but it chimes with his insistence that his wardrobe modus operandi for the Euros this summer will “be more short-sleeved knits than a suit and tie because we’re trying to create a relaxed environment”.
It’s a marked departure from the three-piece suiting that garnered so much attention back in 2018, thanks to the waistcoat that became a symbol of national pride, now a rather antiquated element in men’s tailoring that’s usually relegated to only being worn for weddings or other ultra-formal occasions. So the shift into knitwear is rather more sedate, but perhaps entirely understandable. After all, men’s wardrobes took a battering during Covid and now that work from home is a mainstay for many, there’s been a relaxation of style standards like never before in recent years.
Perhaps the humble old cardie has been long overdue a rebrand. The cardigan has rather fusty connotations – a far cry from its swashbuckling early days on the battlefield, its first iterations derived from the garments worn by the Earl of Cardigan during the Charge of the Light Brigade.
Today, it’s more “charge towards the National Trust tea room” with some hankies up the sleeve. Nothing wrong with that; there’s always a place for cosy knitwear. But that more men of all generations are embracing the cardigan in smarter environs is encouraging. Italian behemoth Zegna, historically makers of exceptional Italian tailoring who rebranded as a dynamic menswear lifestyle brand, have all but done away with shirts worn with suits. Its pioneering creative director Alessandro Sartori proposes knitwear instead – knitted T-shirts with suits and, yes, even cardigans.
The cardie was sexed up considerably when Daniel Craig donned one as Bond throughout his time with the franchise, forgoing the black, assassin-ready suits for something more comfortable and cosy. The actor also wore one on various press tours – a rather snug variety that showed off his protein-pumped frame at the time. One of the prime examples of commendable cardie action was courtesy of Steve McQueen in 1968’s Bullitt.
Years later, Succession patriarch Logan Roy showed his mettle in a series of soft-fit cardigans (again by Loro Piana, as well as equally luxe outfitter Brunello Cucinelli), a demonstration that strength and presence didn’t have to come via a bold-shouldered suit. At the more high-octane, fashiony end of the scale, British wunderkind Steven Stokey-Daley has made cardigans part of his calling card; quirky knits with duck intarsia (yes, outlines of ducks), as seen on the likes of Harry Styles. They’ve also appeared on more experimental stars of the red carpet, from Pedro Pascal to Cillian Murphy.
Jasper cardigan, £485, SS Daley
If you’re inspired (by ducks or not), keep in mind that, for most men, there are two genres on the market. Let’s call one the Comfy Cardie; chunky, substantial and perhaps with a shawl-collar, which adds a certain debonair touch. Excellent all round for when the weather, and the situation, dictates something with a sense of fireside cosiness.
The next iteration is something sleeker and neater, of the Craig variety – see also the Pep Guardiola approach. It’s thin gauge, fits close to the body and in a dark hue, just smart enough for work situations when worn with a crisp shirt and smart trousers. It might help win the Euros, but it’ll hold its own in a grown up wardrobe, too.
Find your go-to cardie...
Cotton and polyester mix cardigan, £88, Wolsey; Cable-knit cardigan, £219, Ralph Lauren
Harley of Scotland Shetland wool cardigan, £130, Bosie; Wool cardigan, £325, Sunspel
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