Despite the drama of dressing for Royal Ascot or the fussiness of pulling together black-tie for Glyndebourne, there’s something reassuring about a strict dress code – you know exactly what’s expected. But then there’s Wimbledon, with its unofficial invitation to dress “smart casual”.
This unspoken dress code is set and practised wholeheartedly by the swathes of Hollywood A-listers, royals and fashion stars who descend on the grounds every year. For a fortnight from July 1, the sartorial action in the stands will be as much of a spectacle as the tennis.
The Princess of Wales – the All England Club’s patron – is the pin-up for umpire chic. Last year’s mint green and cream double-breasted Balmain jacket, teamed with a preppy white pleated skirt, nailed the polished yet playful spirit of dressing Wimbledon perfectly. Actress Sienna Miller, too, has good game – in striped linen suits, or breezy lace dresses.
For men, sharp yet light suiting seems to reign supreme. Take your cues from Benedict Cumberbatch and Tom Hiddleston who usually don daytime blues, or Daniel Craig who was spotted in the royal box last year wearing a slick grey Brunello Cucinelli two-piece.
For those of us who are not being chauffeured to Wimbledon, it’s imperative to enjoy the dress-up without forgetting the practicalities. The walk from Wimbledon or Southfields stations can be a schlep. I’m an SW19 resident now, but my first time at Wimbledon involved a longer-than-expected trek up the hill from the station, with blistered feet and a flushed face before the day had even begun. If you aren’t comfortable walking in heels for 20 minutes, you’re probably better off sticking to flats (or at the very least, pack a big enough bag to accommodate a change of shoes).
Consider too, the amount of very narrow steps you’ll be navigating courtside - hobbling to your seat in heels while carrying a tray full of Pimm’s is not for the faint of heart. You won’t want to wear anything too short either – a mistake I made in 2018 when I decided to give my new Paul and Joe shift dress a spin but didn’t consider quite how high it rose when I sat down. Remember the weather is also famous for being temperamental, and while the show courts have rain cover, it can still get chilly so be prepared for anything.
All of these considerations make outfit planning something of a fine art.
“Layers are key, it’s England after all, and just because it’s summer doesn’t mean the other seasons won’t also show up over the course of a day,” says Clare Hornby, founder of British label ME+EM.
“A sharply tailored jacket in a breathable fabric like a cotton or linen-blend is essential; I would consider a cropped length if you’re wearing a high waistline to create the most flattering silhouette.”
For anyone wanting to elevate their Wimbledon look, Hornby suggests investing in a suit. “You can go on to style all the pieces as separates later, whether that’s for work or other summer events. This season’s key addition has been the tailored vest, which looks just as good on its own as it does layered under a matching blazer.”
Don’t forget sunglasses, SPF and a hat in case your seat happens to be basking in the sun all day – Lock & Co’s Panamas and boaters would work perfectly. I’ve also never felt more smug than the time I brought a hand fan in my bag – it can, contrary to belief, sometimes be sweltering in July.
‘For ten years, I was lucky enough to be at every men’s quarter-final and finals while hosting some fabulous celebrity guests,’ says Sadie Mantovani, a fashion brand consultant.
‘My approach is always to use them as style inspiration, starting from a chic palette of white, cream, tan and navy, and then incorporate current accessories, and always some statement summer jewellery. You can’t go wrong with the American elevated sportswear look, like those from Tory Burch or a Ralph Lauren – he is the ultimate in tennis chic and I often opt for his dove grey cashmere cable knit with pleated white trousers, or a long off-the-shoulder dress in a navy and white bandana print and white blazer, worn with Camilla Elphick towering-but-so-comfortable block heels in gold, or in velvet studded with white pearls.’
Mantovani’s top tips? “Don’t choose Wimbledon as the time to experiment – obviously feel confident in your choices but it’s not like Royal Ascot where there might be rewards for going bold.” Instead, Mantovani suggests incorporating polka dots and fresh stripes into your outfit “for that British/Hamptons summer look”. Her final caution? “Don’t go too tennis-literal on the stripes as you could end up looking like a lines person.”
Get the look
Tencel shirt, £120, With Nothing Underneath; Wide-leg trousers, £250, Me + Em
Wide Fedora ribbon hat, £108, Liberty; Siren cocktail earrings, £177.75, Monica Vinader
Cotton pleated dress, £99, Jigsaw
Acrylic sunglasses, £75, COS; Leather flats, £270, Camilla Elphick
Sensi Studio straw tote, £215, Net-a-Porter
Linen jacket and trousers, £199, Marks & Spencer
Finley sunglasses, £283, Oliver Peoples; Leather loafers, £59.99, Zara
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