There is something about long days and high temperatures that brings out the romantic in all of us. Even the most utilitarian dresser can’t help but be swayed by the sight of a vintage-inspired floral on gossamer-thin fabric.
The US label Dôen has come to own this aesthetic, with cotton dresses and lace blouses that look as though they were discovered in a trunk in your granny’s attic, but are miraculously moth-hole-free.
Before you dismiss this as cottagecore 2.0, it is no passing trend. Romantic summer style is more timeless, less studied, and far less twee. It’s about how a garment makes you feel, says Blaire Donald, the founder of British label St Clair.
She’s paid particular attention to fabric, cut and the way her dresses move on the body for that reason: ‘All my dresses are made from the softest organic cotton, so they feel light and floaty and soft against the skin, but they are lined, so don’t require an ill-fitting slip.’
As you may remember from the cottagecore-heavy summer of 2020, there’s a fine line between sultry and frumpy. The key to getting it right is an injection of sex appeal – and it’s why one of Donald’s favourite designs is her ruffle-collared Rita dress: ‘With a skirt buttoned through to a “kissing split” that parts above the knee as you walk, and a waist tie that you can cinch in, she’s light as air, elegant and slightly flirty.’
Sienna Miller is a great poster woman for summer-romance style, particularly in her current nouveau boho Chloé era. She proves that you can get the look without florals, with just lightweight ruffles, tumbling wavy hair and a bit of joie de vivre. The Petunia blouse by Faune is very in keeping with this approach.
Fans of Dôen will love the brand’s recent collaboration with Gap, while Me+Em and Aspiga both have beautiful cotton voile blouses. Wrap London offers a more pared-back take on the look. Also worth considering are Hill House Home’s easy ‘Nap’ dresses, and If Only If’s nighties-cum-summer dresses.
And how to wear them? Knot a leather belt at the waist to create definition, and add ballerinas or traditional sandals – avoiding anything that would look out of place in a sun-bleached sepia photograph. The goal is to appear effortless, so less is very much more.
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