The lady was famously not for turning, but this particular gentleman – at least in matters pertaining to footwear – has performed a sartorial volte-face this summer, namely in relation to sandals.
That is to say, the various rules around when and where to wear them. In a decision that drew comments from colleagues, I’ve been wearing sandals to the relatively smart Telegraph offices.
“I’d love to, but I’m too embarrassed to get my toes out,” confided one male colleague as he sweltered in his socks and formal shoes, de rigeur for most office-bound men.
And so had I, for years, following the advice of a stylish cohort who insisted toes must only be seen on the beach or by the pool – but a few things finally convinced me otherwise.
I type these words wearing a pair of Ancient Greek sandals with a jaunty toe loop. One factor was the unbearably stuffy blanket of heat settling over London over the last few weeks, and the airy breathability of my female colleagues’ wardrobes in their lightweight sandals.
Another was the fact that, being something of a shoe obsessive, I recognise the many elegant options for sandals out there now, which are as well-crafted and princely as any stately Oxford, and far too pleasing to only be granted a once-yearly moment in the sun while you’re on holiday. And then there were the examples, set by the catwalks and by well-heeled friends, of sandals looking excellent in any setting.
See, for example, the breezy ease of Hermes’ men’s catwalk, where models wore sandals (in the house’s signature ‘H’ strap design) with lighter-than-air suits, ditto Saint Laurent and Dries Van Noten. Or David Beckham looking fresh in a cream suit and sandals at a fashion show this summer.
Of course, front row posturing is not real life, but dress codes are a nebulous thing when it comes to heat, and the stylistic imbalance that means men tend to be in heavier, more cumbersome attire than women in formal settings and expected to grin and bear it is a little unfair. The office is the final frontier of sandal wearing; is it time to get the toes out across the boardroom table?
“I happily pair sandals with more dressy outfits like suits, or trousers with a silk shirt or blouson,” says Nick Vinson, creative director of design agency Vinson & Co and a sandal stalwart.
“I wear navy blue crocodile or black calf sandals with a smoking jacket or a tuxedo in the summer for black tie events. Birkenstocks live in a category of their own; they can be smart but to make them dressy choose the new 1774 models in full leather.”
Of course, in putting your best foot forward, the type of sandal is paramount. Orthopaedic, velcroed varieties built for navigating Snowdon are best left to just that; opt for a sleek, polished leather variety with minimal fussy details.
Keep the colours muted and the shape classic; chunky sandals can look great, but they’re tough to pull off and even more challenging in formal settings with smart trousers and a crisp shirt.
The same goes for the debate over socks with sandals – once stylistic death, now adopted and reimagined by the fashion set. Unless it comes naturally to you, steer away and leave it to your cool, Gen Z son.
Then there’s the decision over classic straps or something a bit more risqué and bare like a toe-strap or thong set-up. That depends entirely on how confident you are and how relaxed your office environment is, but less sandal in general means more contact with the ground – which in London isn’t the most sanitary experience – so be prepared to get scrubbing afterwards (more on that later). On the plus side, the freedom is liberating.
Of course, there’s always the option of closed-toe sandals, better if they’re in a woven leather to allow for some breathability. Fisherman sandals evoke a soignée, South of France mood that’s appealing when you’re broiling at work in Britain in August, and they’re a little more of a halfway house between a proper shoe and a sandal.
And as with baring your toes, you can also opt for versions with or without heels; backless feels a little more free and easy, but if you’ve got heels with more crags and crevices than the White Cliffs of Dover some maintenance may be required.
Because at the crux of all sandal-wearing is how presentable your feet are. This is one part of male grooming where the British man tends to fall short, his yellowing toenails and peeling hooves revealing an inadequate care routine. Men’s feet are a minefield, and us Brits in particular struggle with it, but once you embark on some basic upkeep, it becomes the norm; my own trotters are now tamed and I’ve become meticulous about having a pedicure before summer to maintain standards (although I appreciate that that’s an off putting concept for a lot of men).
“I’m not repulsed by the sight of bare sun-basking toes in the city, but I often find myself in the minority,” says editor and consultant Dal Chodha, who’s steadfastly committed to podal polish.
“Tidy nails – short, buffed – and scrubbed heels are vital. You don’t need a pedicure, but you should adopt a routine for the shower; a heavy body scrub rubbed into the heels of the foot (or foot file for the more adventurous) followed by thick moisturiser to keep your feet convivial to the public,” says Chodha.
“A dry oil spray like Avon’s Skin So Soft is excellent. Think of it like flossing – boring with no immediate benefits but will make you buzz with that extra clean zing. Also, always carry spot plasters; Elastoplast stay on for days. No summer is blister-free so wear in new sandals around the house.”
There’s a romanticism to summer sandals worn in unexpected settings; something about the lack of weight on the feet lends a sense of freedom. It’s a shame to relegate them to a limited run on holiday. The hoof shall set you free.
Our picks
Menelaos leather sandals, £115, ancient-greek-sandals.com; Castaner leather sandals, £140, mrporter.com
Arizona sandals, £95, birkenstock.com; Beachley Fisherman sandals, £225, russellandbromley.co.uk
Oruga sandals, £77, camper.com; Leather sandals, £79.99, mango.com
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