It’s entirely reasonable that a man relaxes a little in his appearance during the August silly season. British men up and down the country are on loungers right now, their looks somewhat shaggier than normal thanks to what the Italians call the sweet dolce far niente; easing into this long, languorous summer and letting up the grooming routine for something more natural.
So it’s understandable that Prince William’s appearance at the closing ceremony for the Paris Olympics at the Stade du France via video link was somewhat different; he’s been spending some holiday downtime with his family at home in Norfolk. But his new look is a marked departure from the clean-shaving, somewhat buttoned-up visage we’ve come to expect from the heir to the throne, with this new sweep of stubble. That he hasn’t chosen to shave it off ahead of a broadcast watched by millions around the world suggests that it may well be here to stay.
There’s a rather splendid royal precedent where fulsome beards are concerned. Prince Harry was the first royal since Prince George V in 1893 to sport a beard for his wedding. King Charles has experimented with a beard in the past, as has Prince William, and it’s been the cause of follicular fallout amongst the men of the royal household; in his controversial tell-all autobiography, Harry recounted that William was “livid” with him for keeping a full beard for his wedding.
Clearly, the Prince of Wales has had a change of heart (one wonders how the new look was received in that mansion in Montecito) by growing a full face of fuzz. It’s also noteworthy in that he’s chosen to grow his beard out while his hairline recedes; it’s a wise choice for men who are balding up top because it distracts and offers a balance. It’s also rather distinguished; see the white plumage of Prince Michael of Kent, the standard bearer for all things bearded in the royal household.
That said, there’s a reason that various employers only allow full beards or freshly shaven jawlines without the fuzzy hinterlands in between; it can look unkempt and rather studenty, an accidental afterthought rather than a firm stylistic decision. So how should you grow out a beard?
Start the process right
It isn’t just a case of downing the razor and letting your tufted chin grow luxuriantly. First, as Prince William has done, wait for a gap in your workaday schedule, like a holiday, because otherwise you’ll go through a period looking like you’ve simply overslept.
“When growing out a beard for the first time, it’s really important to keep your neckline and cheeks clean,” says Bill Coles, store manager at Murdocks’ Barbers of London. “It’s easy to think ‘I’m just going to let it grow for a couple of months’ but if it grows out unevenly, you might lose patience.” Set the edges of your beard rather than let it grow unbidden, and go from there.
Don’t let it grow haywire
Even though you’re trying to grow things out somewhat, stubble still needs to be kept in check. “When transitioning from stubble to a beard, keep your neck tidy and trim your moustache as it grows so that it stays off your lip,” says Coles. It’s also worth trimming straggly ends weekly, he advises, to keep the growth uniformed. It isn’t about downing tools and giving up, but keeping the topiary in check.
Settle on a shape
Not all beards are grown equal, as the hipster trend a few years back attested; sales of razors plummeted as the cool young things of East London and its environs dressed like they were taking place in American civil war enactments. There was even a trend for flowers woven in your beard, to really lend the impression that you’d turned your back on society. Certain beards work better on certain shapes and corresponding hair styles; Coles advises “hair and beard harmony; if you have a short hair, consider a groomed and shorter beard. With longer hair, you can afford a fuller beard. Rounder faces should opt for a longer beard with shorter sides, to add definition and length.”
Tips for balding with a beard
“Don’t overcompensate,” says Coles. “Avoid growing an overly large beard to draw attention away from your thinning hair. Instead, keep your beard well-groomed and neat to look intentional rather than compensatory.” Fuller beards with bald heads can look splendidly donnish, while a dusting of stubble with bald heads is more Jason Statham.
Maintenance is key
Once your beard is suitably fulsome, opt for a beard oil and brush to keep it softened rather than dry and scratchy, advises Coles, and just because you’re downing the razor doesn’t mean you shouldn’t see a barber regularly; get a regular trim. Add beard shampoo to your bathroom ablutions too. Even royal visages need a little guidance in growing a suitably regal beard.
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