I’ve long been a fan of chucking my fabric trainers in the washing machine, ever since I first started wearing canvas and rubber Converse All Stars as a teen. I’ve even tried it with a pair of vegan Birkenstocks (side note: this is only ever a last resort as it can damage both your shoes and your machine). But there are some shoes that won’t survive such a gung-ho attitude when they need a spruce up, perhaps none more-so than a pair of suede shoes.
Suede might have a tricky reputation, but it’s less scary to tackle when it gets mucky than you might think. “Don’t be afraid of suede, it is often easier to clean than smooth leather,” says Tim Little, creative director and CEO for Grenson. “Suede is the underside of the skin and has a nap rather than a smooth finish. The nap can be either tightly packed and velvety or loose and shaggy.”
Prevention is key
While this feature is going to offer tips on how to clean suede, it’s important to always – and I can’t stress this enough – slip into a new pair of suede shoes with a “prevention is key” attitude. Most shoe brands and shops sell bog standard suede protector spray, which will do a pretty good job of preventing the worst should an accident occur.
I’ve been using my Weather Protector spray from Hush Puppies for so many years that the packaging has changed beyond recognition (it really lasts!) but it works very well and is environmentally friendly, too. I tend to give my suede winter boots a new application (after a thorough clean) every autumn before I start wearing them again; my six-year-old Grenson Nanette hiking boots, for example, held up brilliantly when I was caught wearing them in a thunderstorm. For a really special pair, you might want to consider investing in a bottle of Liquiproof – you’ll need half a bottle per shoe, so it doesn’t go as far, but literally nothing sticks to it and it’s also non-toxic.
Weather Protector, £13.50, Hush Puppies
BRUSH UP
Even the most prepared suede shoe wearers will get caught out at some point, however, especially when weathering a British “summer”. If you find yourself with a wet, yet somewhat benign mark – mud or non-stainy food, for example – don’t panic. “Any dirt you get on suede needs to be left to completely dry before you attempt to clean it,” continues Little. “It sits within the nap and will come out more easily when dry.” Next, use another invaluable suede shoe investment – a suede brush – to brush the dirt out of the fibres.
“The vast majority of dirt and stains in suede will then simply brush out,” agrees Little. “You can buy a suede brush that is made for the purpose but a simple clean polishing brush also works. You won’t believe how much dirt will simply brush out as dust from the suede.” In addition, this is a very effective method to fluff suede back up to its former glory after being caught in the rain (I speak from experience).
RUBBER SOLES
Many suede brushes have a rubber side to them as well as a traditional soft brush, and having read that pencil erasers do a similar job, I thought I would give it a go. These suede trainers had picked up a dark, very visible mark, but a couple of seconds with a pencil eraser and it had vanished. A game-changer for this suede sneaker fan, and a totally new method for me (thank you, Google). Make sure that you use a clean eraser, and one that is either colourless white or gum so that the dye of the eraser doesn’t rub onto your shoes and cause a new problem.
SHARP SOLUTIONS
Is there no job that white vinegar cannot tackle? These ancient suede boots had a stubborn watermark on each toe, and brushing hadn’t solved it. They’re from a brand that’s not around anymore, so impossible to replace, which is upsetting because they’re super comfy and have a cosy shearling lining. Using a clean cloth, I dabbed each one with white vinegar, allowed them to dry, and then fluffed up the suede with – you guessed it – my suede brush, as well as doing a little work with my new best friend, the pencil eraser. The stain wasn’t gone completely so I repeated the process and the results aren’t too bad at all. The boots look much more presentable and will see me through another winter.
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