Some of us will never shake off that back-to-school September excitement – and thank the good Lord for that. What can beat the exhilarating sense of possibility of a new pencil case ? A new – or even better, rare vintage – Kelly bag for a start, but you know what I mean.
While you’re still feeling the afterglow of a holiday, this is the best moment to rootle through your wardrobe, start putting high summer pieces away, and appraise what you want from your clothes this season. More energy, more confidence, more sleekness, more ease, more fun, more versatility, more polish… all of the above, plus that undefinable something you’re waiting to fall in love with… Read on.
1.Don’t ditch colours that suit you just because the weather’s changing
The shift from summer to autumn/winter colours can jar if you do it too soon. While it’s balmy and golden hour is still a feature of early autumn evenings, switching to darker colours for the sake of it seems ridiculously old-school – especially when September can be sunnier than August. Sooner or later the light will change, and you’ll want to embrace a different palette.
Knitted vest, £29.50, Marks & Spencer; cotton shirt, £25.99, Zara; and velvet trousers, £399, Polo Ralph Lauren
You can still work in some of your favourite pastels. Burgundy takes a bigger role this winter than for a while. Wear it with soft pinks for a sophisticated autumn take. Chocolate brown is everywhere, and looks lovely with pale pink, lime or blue. Ditto all the greens – from bottle to chartreuse and olive that are so popular currently.
Merino wool sweater, £55.95, Benetton; and satin skirt, £97, & Other Stories
2.Walk away from the repeat buy
You know what works for you and have honed your style over the years, so it’s tempting to repeat the formula over and over. That’s how we end up with wardrobes bursting with 10 pairs of black trousers or grey jumpers.
Okay, maybe they’re not all exactly the same, but plenty of them might be doing the same job. Wean out the also-rans and keep only the best. And the next time you find yourself irresistibly drawn to the grey jumpers section, look for one that offers something new – a neckline you don’t already have, an asymmetric hem, a slit sleeve. A little deviation goes a long way. This grey jumper by Rohe with semi-detachable sleeves is typical of the label’s attention to (just enough) eye-catching details – practical too.
Wool and cashmere jumper, £395, Rohe roheframes.com
3. A luxurious-feeling coat doesn’t have to cost the earth
This year offers some beautiful double-faced/split-wool (aka unlined and bulk-free) wrap coats. Max Mara’s and Johnstons of Elgin’s are the dream – soft and warm. One notch down are Rohe and Toteme. But Jigsaw and Massimo Dutti also both have lovely options in chocolate brown or a tufty champagne-coloured gem.
If you have ultra-deluxe inclinations but lack the monster budget, check out resee.com, a French vintage site which takes only the best so you don’t find yourself down a black hole of doomscrolling – not cheap, but considerably less than you’d pay new.
Wool blend double-breasted coat, £249, Massimo Dutti
Wool coat, £379, Hobbs
Wool houndstooth coat, £495, Toast
4. Refamiliarise yourself with skirts
It’s been a while, but skirts are finally giving dresses a run for their money. Since this is 2024, there isn’t one shape or length that dominates. Kilts, pleats, wraps, midis, maxis, A-line, full or straight, in wools, sinuous, satin-y viscose or the real thing. Find one that complements your shape, throw on a jumper and some boots and you’re good to go. How did we ever think they were a faff?
Pleated skirt, £39.90, Uniqlo; Pinstripe skirt, £180, Essentiel Antwerp; Wool wrap skirt, £135, Cos
My theory, since you didn’t ask, is it’s all to do with the length of your top half. Unless you’re tall, long, baggy jumpers don’t work with most skirt shapes – bias-cut midis being the exception. With many more shorter knits and jackets around, problem solved.
5. Prioritise knitwear in your budget
Much as you may love a jacket, likely as not, you’ll be wearing knitwear more for the next six months. Look for durability, ethical sourcing (you may end up paying a bit more but the end product is a much higher quality with a happier animal and supply chain) and interesting features – and don’t assume you always need the thickest weight out there.
Sleeveless tanks can be surprisingly useful most of the year, worn on their own under jackets or layered over bantamweight jumpers. Kiltane, a Scottish brand that makes in the UK, is one to check out, especially its zip-front jumpers which allow you to adjust the neckline.
Wool tank, £235, Navygrey; Wool and recycled nylon jumper, £295, Mother of Pearl; Cashmere half-zip jumper, £219, Kiltane
What to wear underneath your jumper? Cotton shirts don’t feel particularly cosy in winter. Look for cord, brushed cotton, or cotton tanks or T-shirts. I like it when the white neckline shows a little to provide some contrast with the rest of my outfit. Or check out Me+Em’s layering pieces, designed precisely to solve this part of the jigsaw.
6. These three jacket shapes will get you through any season, any year
The blazer (this is from Hush), the boxy crop (this is from ba&sh) and this year, the blouson (this navy wool, zip-sided one from Me+Em is excellent quality and can be dressed up or down) will give you enough variation on shape and degrees of formality in every imaginable eventuality.
Wool blend jacket, £315, ba&sh
Herringbone blazer, £179, Hush
Bomber jacket, £450, ME+EM
7. Soft, fluffy fabrics take years off
By diffusing light and reflecting it back on your face, a brushed wool jumper can act as a mini light reflector. Not only that, but they’ll add some delight and playfulness to a minimalist outfit. Angora has been mostly abandoned by the UK high street – it’s horrendously cruel – so check the labels, because sometimes small percentages are still used by brands with less of a conscience.
Halo cashmere jumper, £225 each, Jigsaw
They like it because it’s soft and visually appealing, but the same gauzy effect can be achieved with brushed cashmere – see Jaeger’s ivory and black cardigans, and Jigsaw’s jumpers and cardis which come in a tempting palate of steel-blue and pale olive.
8. Your next pair of winter trousers could be all the make-over your wardrobe requires
Walk away from the same styles you’ve been wearing for years. Horseshoe, flared, high-waist, 70s flares, pleat fronts – they’re all out there for taking. When barrel-legged jeans are a best seller at M&S, you know they’re no longer an outlier choice.
There really is no point in adding another pair of black trousers in your usual style. It’s just wardrobe clutter. Seek out something that brings something new and some joy, whether that’s a pair of brown fake leather jeans (M&S’s polyurethane compositions are so good now, there’s no need to use real animal skins in your clothes). These are breathable and pliable.
Faux leather trousers, £35, Marks & Spencer
Wrap-front wool trousers, £135, Cos
9. There’s not much that can’t be refreshed with well-chosen accessories
Last year’s Quiet Luxury trend could probably do with the volume being turned up slightly, before we all nod off. Enter texture (a velvet tote from Penelope Chilvers or loafers), a civilised amount of fringing (more than one piece and you’ve tipped over into rodeo), a small splash of leopard print (it’s everywhere but you’re under no obligation to partake, although this dinky bucket from Zara is an absolute star), a dash of metallics and some good costume jewellery. Jigsaw continues to impress with excellent quality. Bonvo is pricier but worth it for the designs. Take time too, to wade through M&S’s offer for some goodies.
Patent leather shoes, £175, Sézane; Cuff, £16.50, Marks & Spencer; Wool cashmere scarf, £88, Reiss; Leather bucket bag, £89.99, Zara
An outsized scarf adds some youthful whimsy and gives you scope to play with proportions (it’s also practical). Shoe-wise, it’s all about Mary Jane. If you can’t be doing with flats, these from Sézane are a height-giving alternative. Or try some platform loafers. Come boot time, it’s hard to beat Sézane’s mid block heels, or M&S’s patent kitten heels.
Bag wise: boxy, saddle, bucket and no intrusive logos are the most current. Unless it’s Hermès, a battered bag tends to look tatty. Look after yours, whether it’s high street or haute.
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