Earlier this month, Brad Pitt stepped out for dinner with his new(ish) girlfriend, Ines de Ramon, in New York City. While many of the ensuing red-top headlines fixated on Pitt’s distorted check Burberry trousers, it was the delicate gold charm necklace draped around the 60-year-old actor’s neck that caught our attention.
Among the whorl of pendants resting against Pitt’s tanned chest, one charm stood out - a small “I” dangling as a likely tribute to de Ramon, who works in the jewellery industry herself.
Pitt’s pendant is the latest example of a growing trend of high-profile men embracing jewellery with a fresh, romantic flair. Where men once limited themselves to watches, today’s masculine style leaders are reaching for necklaces, dangly earrings, and intricately coiled bracelets to make a statement - whether on the red carpet or in everyday life.
“Some of the most influential men in popular culture are embracing jewellery - Harry Styles, Drew Starkey, Paul Mescal,” says style director of Gentleman’s Journal, Zak Maoui. “Mescal single-handedly kickstarted a new wave of chain wearers following his turn as Connelll with his famous chain in Normal People. It also speaks to the wider move towards more freedom in fashion, where men aren’t afraid to embrace styles traditionally associated with women”
As the world of men’s jewellery continues to evolve, there are a few key rules to follow when navigating it yourself.
1. Start simple and work your way up
The reason Connell’s chain achieved such a cultural chokehold was its simplicity - an unassuming piece of jewellery that expressed both masculinity and softness from within its closely knitted links. It’s a trick you should absorb into your own jewellery wardrobe, too.
“Begin with one piece you love and it will look more natural and less forced than multiple pieces might,” says Maoui. “Choose one great ring rather than a whole handful of knuckle dusters like Harry Styles. Also, it’s probably best to start with jewellery that doesn’t require a piercing, as piercings can’t be reversed if you’re not feeling the look.”
“Ease yourself in,” agrees jewellery designer Bleue Burnham, who has quietly begun to dominate the masculine jewellery sector with his off-kilter, high-colour takes on classic pieces. “Wear something small or minimal that you feel comfortable in and progress over time, taking steps in size or colour. You will be surprised at how quickly something that feels big or loud on your hand can soon feel part of your everyday rotation.”
2. Make like Pitt and stack your necklaces
Once you’ve found your starter necklace, follow Pitt by layering complementary chains and pendants that vary in length. This will create a staggered effect that elegantly fills the space between your open shirt collar and the base of your neck, adding both depth and personality.
“Thicker chains and shorter-length necklaces are our top performing styles amongst customers,” says George Archer, Buying Manager at Mr Porter. “Notably, we’ve seen searches for necklaces increase by 102 per cent over the past six months alongside gold chains at 602 per cent. Stacking and layering remains a key trend, mixing different stones, simple chains, and metals together.”
3. If you’re struggling, a little hoop earring is the easiest entry point
For those under 45 (any older, and you risk looking a touch “Mr Smee”), consider a small gold hoop earring that hugs the earlobe. Such a piece will provide a subtle edge, adding a flash of personality without being overpowering. If you’re hesitant about the permanence of a piercing, fear not - there are plenty of stylish ear cuffs available from brands like Tom Wood and All Blues, allowing you to experiment before committing.
“The little hoop earring is having a moment again, in part due to Drew Starkey who has become a social media hit thanks to his mini mullet and earring choice,” says Maoui. “I predict we’ll see more little hoop earrings as the year wears on, as the likes of Paul Mescal and Louis Partridge continue to sport theirs.”
“We’re seeing a growing demand for earrings,” agrees Burnham. “They are the perfect category and price point for first-time jewellery customers.”
4. Try a signet ring (with a dose of irony)
After Connell’s chain came Dexy’s signet ring. Arguably the standout accessory in Netflix’s sobfest One Day, Leo Woodall’s Dexter wore a little gold pinky ring that embodied both privilege and a touch of toxic masculinity - the style press couldn’t get enough of it. The One Day-inspired resurgence has also translated into a spike in signet ring sales across the wider market.
“Rings have emerged as a growing category, with signet and sovereign styles, along with animated fashion twists, gaining popularity,” says Sarah Cartwright, Buying Manager for Accessories at Selfridges. “These trends are reflected in brands such as Serge de Nimes, Vivienne Westwood, and Emanuele Biocchi. In terms of metals, we have seen our domestic customers favouring silver, with white and yellow gold being the most popular choices.”
“Signet rings remain our best-selling ring style,” says George Archer, Buying Manager at Mr Porter. When wearing your own signet ring, be sure to pair it with more casual, streetwear-inspired outfits. Avoid anything too “public school” coded - like tweed jackets or dad jeans - or you risk veering into Jeremy Clarkson territory.
5. Bling can work, but apply sparingly
While the likes of Pitt and Mescal lean towards sleek chains and discreet earrings, sports stars such as footballer Jack Grealish and the NBA’s Scoot Henderson are opting for unapologetic bling - favouring bold, eye-catching pieces that make a statement both on and off the field. “We are seeing customers investing in fine jewellery pieces from brands such as Van Cleef, led by football players who stack their bracelets and necklaces,” says Cartwright.
If you’re thinking of adding a touch of sparkle to your jewellery collection, the key is moderation. Choose one standout piece, like a colourful tennis bracelet from TwoJeys or Bleue Burnham, and pair it with your watch. Alternatively, opt for a jewelled ring from Hatton Labs and sport it solo, for maximum impact.
“Rope chains, Cuban bracelets and necklaces with lots of sparkle have been very popular,” adds Cartwright. “We are seeing massive growth in fashion brand TwoJeys, which brings more colour and variety to our offering.”
6. For smarter outfits, embrace a brooch
One of the simplest ways to absorb jewellery into your evening outfits is to pop a brooch onto your lapel. Whether you opt for something pearly, care of Dior or Simone Rocha, or a chandelier-style lapel pin from McQueen or Prada, even the most boring black suit can be made sublime with a great brooch. “Recently our brooches have been doing very well,” says Burnham. “A brooch is an amazing way to elevate an outfit. “
Read more of Teo van den Broeke’s writing at The Closet on Substack
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