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Eric Garcia

Washington Bureau Chief

Christian Dior championed female athletes by paralleling power and beauty at the Musée Rodin at Paris Fashion Week.

The spring/summer 2025 show featured live archery from multi-disciplinary artist Sagg Napoli, Dior-branded quivers and toga-like evening gowns, inspired by the active women of ancient Greece.

Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri has long imbued the strength and power of women within her collections.

As the first female creative director in the label’s 70-year history, Chiuri has been transforming the Dior into a more youthful, feminist brand since 2016, often citing her daughter Rachele Regini as a muse.

For this collection, Chiuri drew on the brand’s legacy, noting in the show’s preview, “Sport was an integral part of Christian Dior’s couture and fashion universe. He found inspiration early on thanks to his mother’s influence, when Dior saw her wearing riding clothes.”

In past collections, Chiuri’s feminist subjects have ranged from the French athlete Alice Milliat, who fought for women’s participation in the Olympics, to Mary Queen of Scots. For this show, Chiuri was inspired by Diana of Versailles: the Goddess of the Hunt.

As a free, agile Grecian hunter connected with wild nature, Diana of Versailles posed as the perfect muse for Dior’s spring/summer collection, which featured one-shoulder draping and Dior-embossed side satchels.

The show paid homage to Diana’s long mantle – a cape the hunter would roll over her belt when she needed to move quickly – showcasing the versatility and dynamism of women’s sportswear.

Chiuri modernised the Grecian mantle into Sixties-inspired capes, re-imagining the designs by Philippe Guibourgé for the House’s pioneering Dior Sport line in the 1960s.

The show had a stern and sombre atmosphere, as black deconstructed silhouettes drenched the runway. Diagonal and plunging lines with bared shoulders transformed everyday shirts and jackets into practical gear allowing agility and movement.

Bags and accessories were worn crossbody to further emphasise references to ancient statuary, archery and the archival ‘Amazone’ design, while keeping hands liberated for other activities.

Yet the collection spanned sport throughout the ages: from motocross leather to scuba diving, swimming, parachuting, skiing, horse riding and more – Chiuri drew inspiration from women’s interests across the globe.

Dior’s use of beaded fringe and similarly adorned wrap skirts exemplified the collection’s focus on movement, that swished and shimmered with every step.

Sparkling bodysuits cropped up among seas of black: the allure of athleticism was elevated through illuminated and metallic embroideries.

As the show drew to a close, the appearance of pink and smoky blush shades rippled to the surface, the final looks served as an affirmation of unapologetic femininity.

From athletic to ethereal; organza asymmetric dresses closed the show, reminiscent to the trench-style dresses in Chiuri’s last spring/summer collection, but lighter and more fluid – more liberating for the wearer – showing how Chiuri’s collections grow and move with the women showcasing them.

Supporting stars on the front row included ex-face of Miss Dior, Natalie Portman, 43, who showcased passion and practicality in black leather biker boots, a silver studded skirt and a plush velvet jacket with corset detailing.

Rosamund Pike, 45, wore a velvet black evening gown with Edwardian button detailing, puffed sleeves and a tied leather belt.

Elizabeth Debicki, 34, who played the late Princess of Wales in Netflix’s The Crown wore a Diana-inspired ensemble in a wool overcoat and silk headscarf.

Anya Taylor-Joy, 28, wore a cream custom embellished two-piece. The Queen’s Gambit star has modelled for a range of Dior beauty campaigns.

In each show, Chiuri aims to give a complex response to what’s going on today – socially and politically – and how fashion can adequately meet it.

It seems as though this collection was responding to the saddening statistic that by age 14, many girls drop out of sports at two times the rate of boys, due to confidence, social stigma and lack of positive role models, according to the Women’s Sport Foundation.

With this collection, Chiuri was able to reimagine fashion for modern and dynamic women, embracing freedom, movement and expression.

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