One of the questions I’m asked on frequent repeat concerns more expensive bottles. Sure, everyone loves a tip for a sub-£10 banker, but there’s less to lose when you’re trying out wines you buy like breakfast cereal. What if you’re heading away from the supermarket shelves and veering into the £20 zone? How can you increase your chances of finding a belter? I have two words: South Africa.
The wine community is not exactly renowned for cordial relationships and shared opinions, but on the subject of South Africa there is violent agreement. It is producing some serious hot tickets, and the value is especially hot in the £15-30 bracket. I’ve trotted out this truism so many times I shouldn’t still be surprised. Yet the wines I tasted to research this column were so good I was astounded all over again. Of particular note was a syrah from Sam Lambson, who worked harvests for chenin blanc guru Chris Alheit and Lukas van Loggerenberg before setting up on his own as Minimalist Wines. Lambson’s Connect the Dots Blended Syrah 2021 (13.5%, Lay & Wheeler, £21.81) combines approachability with touches of the dark savour and black pepper that are the hallmark of the finest vineyards of the northern Rhône. Better still, it draws you into its own atmosphere and landscape, as all the best wines should. It’s made from 84 per cent Elgin fruit with smaller percentages from Agulhas and Stellenbosch; I drank it with spicy bavette steak.
Lambson’s Connect the Dots Blended Syrah 2021, 13.5%, Lay & Wheeler, £21.81
But top of my list these days, when it comes to South Africa, is chenin blanc. I don’t buy it as an alternative to chenin blanc from the Loire, though. I love the glittering thrust and nervosity of acidity of Loire chenin blanc, but Cape chenin does something different. Yes, it can be refreshing and pleasingly taut, but it’s more padded and satisfyingly textured, sometimes with subtle notes of apricot, lemon curd and toast. I began hunting out South African chenin when I was in the mood for white burgundy – it really scratches that particular itch – and soon found I was thirsting for it in its own right.
I love to pour a glass of Cape chenin alongside crab and fresh coriander on toast, or with skewers of pork loin, marinated in olive oil, paprika, lemon, cumin and garlic. It’s also good with a weekend roast chicken. Try Wolf & Woman Chenin Blanc 2022, Swartland (13%, Justerini & Brooks, £23.40), which has a faintly smoky smell, then notes of pastel de nata with a salty freshness. Or Tim Hillock Wines La Cosmica Chenin Blanc 2022, Swartland (13%, Lea & Sandeman, £25.95).
Wolf & Woman Chenin Blanc 2022, Swartland, 13%, Justerini & Brooks, £23.40
Tim Hillock Wines La Cosmica Chenin Blanc 2022, Swartland, 13%, Lea & Sandeman, £25.95
But don’t stop at chenin blanc; try the vivid, lucid pinot noirs from Hemel-en-Aarde; the new-wave grenache made with more reasonable levels of alcohol than you find in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and often superior (unless you particularly love the very rich, high-alcohol style); even pinotage, not the sort made in the divisive coffee and smoke styles but the more textured wines.
The bigger merchants who buy South African wines particularly well include Swig, Lea & Sandeman, Lay & Wheeler, The Sourcing Table and Justerini & Brooks. But do also explore your local indie. And a final recommendation goes to Rall Cinsault 2022 (12%, Justerini & Brooks, £23.40) – a beautiful, juicy dance of a wine with notes of cranberry, pink peppercorn and bilberry.
Rall Cinsault 2022, 12%, Justerini & Brooks, £23.40
Wines of the week
Lukas van Loggerenberg Breton 2020, Stellenbosch
13%, Justerini & Brooks, £28.20
Gloriously intense and pure, yet with finesse – a tang of iron mingles with elderberry and redcurrant flavours.
Van Niekerk Rebellie Grenache 2020, Bot River
13%, Lea & Sandeman, £24.50
Pale and elegant, with a fragrance of dried herbs, white pepper, wild raspberries and a gentle medicinal note.
Minimalist Wines Experimental Chenin Blanc 2021
13.5%, Lay & Wheeler, £14.61; Woodwinters, £18
£25? £20? That’s my friends guessing how much this cost. Layers of poached apricot and pear.
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