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Louise Thomas

Editor

Alessandro Michele’s debut as Valentino’s creative director injected the fun and fearlessness fashion month has been waiting for.

Having previously been at the helm of Gucci, Michele joined Valentino in March and his spring/summer 2025 collection was highly anticipated.

His collection marks a daring and imaginative new chapter for the storied fashion house. With his bold mix of maximalism, retro glamour and theatrical styling, Michele has brought Valentino’s legacy into the spotlight once again.

Entitled Pavillon Des Folie, the show explored a fusion of two revolutionary fashion eras – the 1920s and the 1960s – resulting in a captivating, layered collection that felt both nostalgic and strikingly modern.

Set in an intimate hall dimly lit by warm lamps covered in sheer fabrics, the runway unfolded against a backdrop of harps, busts and antique furniture, evoking a mood of mystery and old-age opulence.

The set’s draped fabrics evoked a concealed intrigue. The models, adorned in sheer fabrics themselves, offered glimpses of their bodies, giving the collection an ethereal, almost haunting beauty. It wasn’t about merely abandoning and concealing Valentino’s past: it was about reinvention, with a heavy dose of theatricality.

The models walked on a cracked mirrored runway, symbolising the disruption of old conventions and the breaking into a new era under Michele’s visionary leadership.

Michele’s opening looks featured drop waist dresses, coloured tights, lace, ruffles and fur coats – an eclectic mix that paid homage to the flapper fashion of the 20s and the bright boldness of the 60s.

Michele’s maximalism was on full display with embroidered coats paired with frilled skirts, wide-brimmed hats, and exaggerated ruffled collars. The fusion of decades was clear in the shift dresses and drop-waist gowns reminiscent of the 20s jazz age, interspersed with The Beatles’ aesthetic of the 60s.

Accessories such as silk evening headwraps, Oxford bags and round Lennon-like glasses underlined this dynamic interplay of two fashion revolutions.

The show radiated a palpable sense of drama, underscored by an ethereal, humming soundtrack and acoustic strings. Michele’s daring flair came through in bold details: bird-feathered hats, fox-like stoles and fur trims.

These audacious touches created a striking juxtaposition with contemporary fashion’s sustainable and ethical policies, challenging perceptions of what “high fashion” can be in today’s world.

The use of colour was nothing short of showstopping. Michele employed a broad spectrum of soft pastels, vivid ochres, reds and deep pitch blacks. This vibrant palette brought the collection to life, underscoring its rich complexity.

In a nod to the extravagant glamour of the roaring 20s and swinging 60s, animal trims, lavish frills and bold accessories created an atmosphere of indulgence. The combination of such opulent decades suggests Michele sees us on the brink of another style revolution, away from “quiet luxury”.

Stars who turned out to support the designer’s debut included long-term friend Harry Styles, Sir Elton John, Andrew Garfield and Salma Hayek.

Michele’s debut show has successfully reinvigorated Valentino, blending historic opulence with modern boldness.

The collection was a standout moment in fashion month, signalling that Valentino’s legacy is not just being revived, but reimagined entirely.

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