Paris Fashion Week has drawn to a close after offering up some of the most inspiring catwalk trends for the spring 2025 season. From new chore jackets to soft trouser suits, these are the pieces we will actually want to add to our wardrobes.
The feminine chore jacket: Chloe
Chemena Kamali is single-handedly fuelling a revival of trinket-laden, feminine, boho style over at Chloe, but if the whole shebang is too much then make like Sienna Miller did when she took to the show’s front row and distil the look for a more sleek, modern vibe. Case in point, the numerous variations on a blouson jacket which Kamali had created using the pattern of a 1970s blouse. Whether cropped or longline, they’re a nice update to the staid chore jacket look, which has been everywhere for a while. A throw-on, outfit-transforming one-piece. BH
The sarong skirt: Schiaparelli
At Schiaparelli, American Daniel Roseberry’s woman was wasp-waisted and exuded slick glamour this season, whether she was in mermaid-y wet-look turquoise or upscale contoured denim. The collection aimed to equip customers for cruising and travel but there could be no better piece to luxuriate in next summer than one of the sarong-style skirts. Sporty but also forgiving, this is a piece which would lend it itself as well to high summer city dressing with a crisp white shirt as to beachside elegance with nothing more than a swimsuit and a cocktail. BH
The floral dress: Loewe
Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe collections are crisp and high concept, but this is also a designer who’s acutely aware of his commercial impact. He flooded his catwalk with variations of a gossamer-light floral dress which was hooped at the bottom, creating an ultra-roomy silhouette which would allow for no one to be any the wiser about a big lunch. No doubt A-listers and the art crowd will adopt the pure version of the idea. But on a wider level, this could herald a comeback for unashamedly pretty, roomy floral frocks. Women the world over will be rejoicing. BH
The fluid silk dress: Victoria Beckham
Backstage after unveiling her collection on Friday evening, Victoria Beckham was especially proud of the resin designs which opened her show. But it was the effortless slippery silk dresses – which looked like melted chocolate poured down the body to slim and sculpt in all the right places – which are bound to be the real hit. Beckham has already had a sales boom thanks to her similarly carefully constructed Bella dress, which is loved by royals and celebrities, and these designs look set to follow suit. The even better news? Models wore theirs with flats. BH
The jumpsuit: Hermes
Along with the rest of Paris, Hermes’s creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski is backing knee length skirts, shorter jackets and fluid trousers with side zips that allow for an adjustable silhouette. Much of her offer here was, as is usual at Hermes, in leather and in shades of sand, khaki and raspberry. Sometimes it can all seem a bit rarefied – Hermes has, more than any other house, always been about the bags (and to an extent the shoes). But this jumpsuit, similar to one Lauren Hutton wore in the front row of the Saint Laurent show last week, summed up Vanhee-Cybulski’s light, unfussy touch . LA
A cinched in blazer: Alexander McQueen
I couldn’t attend Seán McGirr’s debut for Alexander McQueen back in March, so I can’t judge whether it deserved the almost universal panning it received. If it did, then this was surely a marked improvement. McGirr’s tailoring is sharp if not perfect – the way some of those jacket sleeves hang could do with some refining. Shoulders were emphasised, as they should be at McQueen, but not cartoonishly so. The frothy chiffon evening wear, while it lacked the detailed beauty of his predecessor, Sarah Burton’s, looked commercially viable. LA
Pale trench coat: Akris
While other shows aim to shock, Akris, a quiet Swiss label, concentrates on wearable looks in luxurious fabrics. It makes a nice change. The trench coat may have started life on the front lines of WW1, but it works as well for sleek city wear today as it did for Humphrey Bogart. This pale stone version, with a relaxed tie belt, makes an effortless cover-up. SS
Deluxe Stripes: Sacai
Chitose Abe, founder and designer at Sacai, is endlessly inventive, creating new hybrids that transcend conventional dress codes. That makes her clothes both timeless and useful. Often mixing athletic staples with classic codes, here she’s turned basic navy and white stripes into a glamourous tunic with a zhuzhy demi-train at the back. For the right person, this is evening wear that looks cool and relaxed without being contrived. Coco Chanel would approve, you feel, which is why there’s some talk of Abe as a left field choice for the (currently vacant) top job at that house. LA
The cropped, collared jacket: Celine
Currently the front runner to take the top job at Chanel, Hedi Slimane (who resigned from his job on Wednesday) offered a refined, sophisticated play on classic Coco Chanel chic at Celine this season. It could be read as the ultimate audition. From cropped jackets (suede, beaded or wool) and knee length (and shorter) pleated metallic skirts to flawless black sculpted evening wear (think distilled Cristobal Balenciaga at his best), this Françoise Hardy inspired wardrobe is quintessentially Parisian. The models have eyelash tangling fringes, flicky eyeliner and Bambi legs. I adore the jackets, blouses and the new bag with its pared-back hardware. But to wear the whole look head-to-toe you need to be thin and young (or ancient with a whole lot of attitude).
When I say models, don’t imagine any of this was on the catwalk. The media-phobic Slimane stopped all that lark a few years ago, preferring to launch new collections via highly polished videos. This one featured models in grand chateaux and gardens (shades of Last Year at Marienbad, the 1961 art house classic costumed by Coco Chanel). Select journalists are invited to Celine’s left bank HQ to see the clothes up close – the workmanship is spectacular. LA
The sporty outer-layer: Miu Miu
There was a slew of fun ideas on Miu Miu’s catwalk, from pleated below the knee-length skirts (Paris’s new favourite length), boxy top handled bags, neat bomber jackets, sporty parkas, multi-coloured trainers, blazers, geometric patterned, wool trench coats… the list of wearable, yet interesting, pieces went on and on. Of special note: the neon ‘anti-blister’ sock which many of the models wore with their sandals. If Dr Scholl hasn’t borrowed this idea by next summer, they need a change of leader. LA
The soft trouser suit: Louis Vuitton
Creative director Nicolas Ghesquière has been playing with 1980s proportions for a few seasons now – and clearly enjoys it. This was upbeat and colourful. Wide shoulders and big puff sleeves, elongated bomber jackets, cycling shorts and bright primary colours suggest the decade is still working its way through his system. But so too is a new softness. Fly away silk dresses, some short at the front and long at the back, confirmed a trend that has been spotted on catwalks throughout the past month. This drapey, navy trouser suit is particularly notable – wearable and understated, does it mark a new era at a label best known for avant garde red carpet statements? LA
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