OK, what are we having for dinner tonight?’ is genuinely a question I ask myself every day, even as a food writer. I’m a creature of habit, a mum of two. I need simple cooking most days, recipes with minimal prep and cooking times. These are usually reliable family favourites, enhanced with flavoursome combinations of my trusty store cupboard spices, that can be easily cooked in the oven in one tray, or on the hob in a single pot.
Although I cannot forgo the deliciousness of the traditional Turkish-Cypriot dishes I have grown up with, some of my family recipes can certainly be a labour of love. When I have the time, I adore the process that goes into making dishes such as dolma – rolled and stuffed (vine) leaves and vegetables.
The addition of classic British cooking my mum had never even seen or heard of for the first 20 years of her life was a clear reflection of the food customs she had absorbed since moving to the UK. Marrying these with the traditional methods she’d use to make these delicious family dishes was an homage to our diasporic Turkish-Cypriot existence. My childhood food traditions have undoubtedly shaped the way I now cook for my own family.
I have learnt so much from cooking with my mum. She is so relaxed and calm in the kitchen (I am still working on this) and uses whatever she has to hand. With one arm manoeuvring a piece of fabric under the sewing machine, and another preparing dinner, I watched her multitask her days like a pro when we were younger. Working from home (or in her brother’s clothing factory in Tottenham, London), whilst running a taxi service for me and my siblings, we were so lucky to know that she would always ensure there was a family dinner on the table every night, even if it was made up of bulked-up leftovers from the days before – we made the most out of what we had.
There were always a few key ingredients and fresh herbs in the fridge, and certainly a few blocks of hellim (halloumi) ready to make into a quick light bite. We’d throw pasta straight into sauces rather than boiling it first and make soups and stews from whatever dried grains, herbs and condiments were in the cupboard. This style of cooking is not only satisfying and creative, but it also equips you with the simple skills to cook something delicious, even with just a small number of ingredients. I’ve learnt to never waste a scrap from the fridge and to batch-cook meals.
I always cook down vegetables in olive oil, and salad dressings are never made without excellent quality extra-virgin olive oil. My fridge is regularly stocked with carrots, celery and lemons, and herbs such as parsley and coriander. My store cupboard is never without spices and condiments, like pul biber, also known as Aleppo pepper – oilier, tangier and fruitier than the standard chilli flakes you’ll find in the supermarket – and tatlı biber salçası, a thick Turkish red pepper paste made from dried red peppers that’s used just like tomato paste.
To give me the flavours I crave, I’ve created easier, shortcut versions of some of my most beloved family recipes, or have given them a little twist with a slight change in method or ingredients.
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