You’ve heard about King Charles and his Savile Row suits, Prince William’s jaunty velvet evening slippers and, after last summer’s viral X (formerly Twitter) thread, King Filipe VI of Spain’s immaculate approach to tailoring.
But what about Fernando Fitz-James Stuart, 17th Duke of Huéscar? The internet’s self-proclaimed “menswear guy” Derek Guy (@dieworkwear on X) – who noted the Spanish king’s faultless Wimbledon ensemble last July – has decreed that “[he] might be the second most stylish living royal (after the king of Spain)”.
The grandson of the late, great Duchess of Alba – the world’s most titled grandee at the time of her death in 2014 – Fitz-James Stuart married Sofía Palazuelo Barroso in a lavish ceremony in 2018 and has since blossomed into the blue-blooded Iberian style icon we never knew we needed.
But what is it about the Spanish aristocrat which truly sets his look apart? And more importantly, how can you emulate it in your own wardrobe when you don’t hail from one of your country’s wealthiest families ?
Here are seven key style lessons to learn from the best-dressed royal you’ve never heard of.
1. It pays to stick to a uniform (which isn’t a uniform)
There’s a lot to be said for finding a sartorial trough which works and furrowing it until you develop a distinctive personal style. It’s a trick which the Duke of Huéscar has perfected in his 33 years.
When not in ceremonial dress, the aristocrat opts for a simple uniform of high-collared shirts and immaculate tailored garments which lengthen his body and complement the broad sweep of his shoulders. The moody hue of his suits also work beautifully with the intensity of his colouring.
“As well as often wearing official uniform for formal occasions, the Duke has adopted a personal uniform for the rest of his engagements,” explains stylist Catherine Hayward. “Simple, dark single-breasted tailoring with an expensive silk tie for work or a nonchalant rolled-up shirt sleeve, basic chino and shorts for weekends. He never strays from this formula. It’s useful and it works.”
2. Going informal? Go preppy
A fan of worn-in polo shirts, mid-rise chinos (teamed, importantly, with statement belts in complementary shades of leather), and roomy button-down shirts, the Duke’s off-duty style comes imbued with a whiff of American prep, albeit with a European edge.
The key to achieving the look with equal sartorial aplomb, is to make like the Duke and stick to a simple palette of muted cobalts, washed sages, buffed stones and dusty roses. This will ensure that even though your casual garments are cut for comfort, they will look stylish by way of their chromatic cohesion.
“Off duty, there’s something of John F Kennedy Jr about the Duke,” says menswear consultant Olie Arnold. “The right jeans, worn with the right formal shirt (but with rolled-up sleeves and just enough chest showing), or a faded polo shirt teamed with short shorts, shows an appreciation for style and a confidence in what he wears that’s entirely natural.”
3. Get. A. Tailor
If you want to look as stylish as the Duke, you need to find a great tailor and allow them to work their magic on every garment you buy – off-the-peg or otherwise. Said tailor doesn’t need to cost the earth, or have a premises on Savile Row, but they do need to have a strong sense of silhouette and an ability to advise you about the best cuts to suit your frame.
“The Duke’s tailoring does three things,” explains Derek Guy on X. “1. The extended shoulder broadens his shoulder line. 2. The nipped waist gives him a V-shaped figure. 3. The longer jacket smoothes out his hips and creates a line that flows into his legs.”
Be prepared that it might take time to find a tailor who is able to achieve all the aforementioned points, so don’t be afraid to call on other stylish people you know for their recommendations – and be willing to shop around.
“The Duke clearly has a fantastic tailor or knows his onions when it comes to combinations and fit,” says Arnold. “I’d guess he wears Tom Ford, due to the wider lapel, strong shoulder and waisted cut of the jackets. He looks elegant and expensive, but he also has the air of someone who has been fitted for bespoke suits since they could crawl, so I’m sure they’re not off the rack.”
4. If in doubt, keep it simple
Coco Chanel famously once said, “before you leave the house, look in the mirror and take one thing off.” It’s a dictum which the Duke clearly lives by – intentionally or otherwise – because the most accessorising he ever does is with a perfectly knotted silk tie or a pair of smart shades.
Instead, Fitz-James Stuart focuses his energies on the constituent elements of his look – the perfect arch of his lace-up Oxfords or the slim-yet-draped cut of his shirts. “Fitz-James Stuart appears to strike the balance between formality and contemporary,” says Arnold. “The Don Draper quote, ‘make it simple, but significant,’ feels apt when describing the dress codes of the current Duke of Huéscar.”
“There’s nothing wild or outrageous about his tailored looks,” agrees menswear designer Oliver Spencer. “There are no bold ties or eccentric linings – he just lets the cut and quality of his suits shine.”
5. Pick a fuller trouser
“The Duke wears slightly fuller trousers, which allow them to drape more cleanly,” Guy writes in his post – a point on which stylist Gareth Scourfield agrees; “The Duke appears to be pretty astute with the details and his tailoring is perfectly balanced. His hems hit the shoes at the right length and his trousers are cut fuller so they hang from the waist.”
The prevailing trend in recent years has been for a close-cut, tapered trouser, which finishes above the shoe, pulls in at the calf and creates a kind of carrot shape. The truth is, however, that such a cut will make you look shorter and cling to the muscular planes of your leg – which should be avoided if you plan on walking while wearing your trousers.
“You must consider how your trousers will look not only when you’re standing still, but also when you’re in motion,” wrote Guy. “The relative fullness of the Duke’s trousers also allow him to create a smooth, harmonious silhouette between the jacket and the pants [trousers].”
6. Your formal wear should never be an afterthought
Although it might be tempting to save money by renting a morning suit or tuxedo, the truth is that a) you’ll wear it much more than you imagine, and b) you’re going to appear in plenty of photos while doing so. It makes better sartorial and financial sense, therefore, to do a Fitz-James Stuart and invest in proper, tailored formalwear designed to both fit your frame and last a lifetime.
“The Duke is obviously well-versed in formalwear – his choice of morning suit and waistcoat is always excellent,” says Oliver Spencer. “For example, he attended his brother’s wedding in 2021 wearing a traditional black morning coat with cashmere stripe trousers, and paired them with a soft yellow shawl lapel waistcoat with a pale-blue cutaway collar shirt and tonal navy tie. All of which shows a keen eye for detail and an appreciation of the power of good colour pairings.”
7. Make the most of your hair
Unlike most British aristocrats, who buzz their locks into submission or have very little hair to start with – Fernando Fitz-James Stuart has been blessed with a follicular fecundity peculiar to his class and is fabulously unafraid to flaunt it.
“I think the Duke’s sartorial piece-de-resistance is his impressive head of hair,” agrees Catherine Hayward. “He has a healthy, lustrous barnet with just the right amount of ‘flick’. It’s a bit George Michael circa 1986 – all soft waves and smoulder – and is the perfect antidote to the simplicity of his wardrobe.”
Read more of Teo’s writing by subscribing to The Closet on Substack.
Disclaimer: The copyright of this article belongs to the original author. Reposting this article is solely for the purpose of information dissemination and does not constitute any investment advice. If there is any infringement, please contact us immediately. We will make corrections or deletions as necessary. Thank you.
