I have a solution to the ever-increasing deer population in this country – eat more deer. With the animals roaming the countryside and doing serious damage to woodland (stripping the leaves, shoots and bark from trees), farmers and landowners should be happy with this proposal, and it provides us meat-eaters with a nutritious source of protein that’s less fatty than beef, pork or lamb. 

Various species of deer have come to dominate rural Britain, from fallow to roe, sika, Chinese water deer, muntjac and red deer, all of which are delicious to eat. Some years back, I started butchering a locally shot deer every couple of weeks to use for my Kitchen Table events or at the restaurant. Carefully butchered cuts can also make great gifts for friends.

Although diced or minced venison is popular, there’s no reason to stop there. There are shanks, from the legs, for braising, and fillets from the haunch to be pan-fried nice and pink. Venison saddle can be treated like a lamb saddle and roasted whole, as can the quick-cooking rack, which can also be sliced into cutlets.

Deer also provides meat that can be slow-cooked as a joint, diced for a pie or minced for a rich ragù or keema curry. Last but not least, there’s offal, which I love in its own right or added to a mixed grill.

Many options, then, for an animal that can do us the world of good.

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