Call them flip-flops, call them thongs – the toe-post sandal is the original divisive footwear, long preceding Crocs, Uggs and ‘dad’ trainers.
Everyone will be familiar with the sight of an ungroomed foot on a moulded foam sole, held together by a pair of plastic or nylon straps. They usually emerge at the first sight of sun. They may be comfortable, and transcend age and gender – but fashion, they are not.
And yet, if you are a lover of the sleek, expensive aesthetic sold by designer labels such as Toteme, Brunello Cucinelli and The Row, it may be time to reacquaint yourself with the flip-flop. This year, they are very much back in style, and not just for beach holidays, but for the city, for work, for weddings and parties. They’ve had a rebrand – when done right, they are now seen as a beautifully minimalist shoe choice.
They can also be jaw-droppingly expensive. Included in former Céline creative director Phoebe Philo’s latest product ‘drop’ is a 75mm wedge pair with slim suede straps. The price? £750. That’s a bargain compared with The Row’s bestselling Ginza flip-flop flatform, which retails for £960 (M&S does an excellent tribute for £35). Even so, you can expect to see these luxe thongs at smart spots everywhere this summer, from the pool at the Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc to the Serpentine Summer Party.
“I love pairing mine with an elegant dress for evening, or cotton shirt and tailored shorts for the day,” says Christina Martini, co-founder of Ancient Greek Sandals, which sells elegant leather styles for men, women and children. “I think you do need to balance their inherent casualness by dressing up a bit.”
National retailers’ investment in a particular trend is a strong indication of it going big, and for M&S, flip-flops form part of a wider offering that is strong on stylish flats, says Lisa Illis, head of womenswear design: “It’s a key footwear trend that we have bought confidently into and one that we know is important to our customers… They really come into their own during the summer season, providing a versatile high-low styling option for relaxed holiday or more elevated looks.”
Even flip-flop specialists have seen an uptick: “In the first quarter of 2024, we’ve witnessed a 25 per cent growth in traffic and 27 per cent increase in revenue in our ecommerce compared to the same period of last year,” says Harm van de Camp, the president of Alpargatas Europe at Havaianas, while OluKai has seen sales of its classic Ohana sandal rise by 41 per cent year-on-year, and its Honu sandal by 34 per cent.
This is one of the most accessible trends of the summer – and I say trend in the loosest sense, because they never really went away, did they? They’re comfortable, and can be found easily on the high street, so there’s no need to pay hundreds of pounds for a pair.
All you have to do is consider when you’re most likely to wear them, so you get the pair that best suits your lifestyle, and adhere to these straightforward guidelines…
The rules
Get a pedicure
This is a non-negotiable, for men and women. There’s nowhere to hide with a flip-flop, and an ungroomed foot is the kiss of death to your summer look, no matter how fancy your clothes. At the very least, a basic pedicure will keep your feet in good health.
Make them sleek and chic
They should look like an aesthetically pleasing footwear choice, not orthopaedic hiking sandals. Opt for suede or leather if you plan to wear them in a work or social context, stick to neutral colours, and avoid anything with fussy logos or patterns.
Arm yourself with plasters
No footwear should rip your feet to shreds, but a little new-shoe irritation is inevitable. Identify it early and stick a fabric plaster (which really won’t budge) on the area ASAP if you suspect a blister may form – prevention is better than cure, and the abrasion should disappear after a few wears.
Know when to part ways
We’ve all worn much-loved shoes to death, but this is a polished look, and there’s a point at which a pair of flip-flops just doesn’t look attractive any more. By that stage of decay, a battered shoe is probably not good for your foot health or posture, either. Bear in mind that if you invest in a quality pair of sandals in the first instance, you’ll find that they last longer than a budget pair.
What to buy
In the city
If you plan to wear your sandals in a more formal context than the beach, care is required. Rubber flip-flops are great, but they’re not for the office. Instead, seek out a leather pair. A broader top strap, or in the case of women’s sandals, a small heel, can also lend a sophisticated edge.
Women’s: Mera leather sandal, £160, Ancient Greek Sandals ancient-greek-sandals.com; Men’s: Mr. P Fede suede sandals, £195, Mr Porter mrporter.com
On holiday
If you do want the practicality of a waterproof pair of flip-flops, without sacrificing on style, keep it simple. Havaianas’ new Una Açai style has a knot detail, which looks smart and nods to the look of Miu Miu’s Riviere sandals.
Women’s: Una Açai sandal, £45, Havaianas havaianas-store.com; Men’s: Tuahine waterproof sandals, £105, OluKai olukai.co.uk
To a party
Men should tread carefully here, as a thong sandal will only really feel appropriate in a beachside or swelteringly hot setting. Wear them in the right context though, and it’ll look fantastic with a linen suit. These women’s Dear Frances sandals have a low heel that’s perfect for dancing all night.
Women’s: Seagrass Flis sandal, £450, Dear Frances dearfrances.com; Men’s: Claremont leather sandal, £125, Russell & Bromley russellandbromley.com
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