So far, the 77th Cannes Film Festival has been serving a predictably high quotient of glamour, with Léa Seydoux in a silver sequin column dress by Louis Vuitton, Eva Green in a strapless sequin ballgown by Armani Privé and Heidi Klum in a bombastic scarlet Saiid Kobeisy couture gown as convoluted as an Ottolenghi meringue.
Which rather made Jane Fonda’s presence on the red carpet all the more impactful. A veteran of such events at 86, the actress, activist and L’Oréal brand ambassador had the wisdom not to compete with the ballgown brigade, opting instead for a simple black wide-legged trouser suit by Elie Saab. The trouser suit alone was elegant enough, but Fonda’s stylist, Cristina Ehrlich, had transformed an understated red carpet look into a memorable one by adding one extra ingredient. Fonda’s secret sauce? A cocktail coat.
Tempting as it may be to dismiss “cocktail coat” as yet another spurious, nonsensical fashion term to be filed in your personal Room 101 alongside jorts, midaxis and jeggings, it would be expedient first to consider the evidence. For the cocktail coat is, in fact, a very handy item indeed, combining the usefulness of a coat with the romantic whimsy of a fancy dressing gown – Fonda’s was a sweeping animal print style by the Italian label Forte_Forte. While it would be overstating things to call it a wardrobe staple, it’s an incredibly versatile item to own; one of those rare purchases that can elevate even the most prosaic look, in much the same way as a statement necklace did for those frantic, unexpected Zoom meetings during lockdown.
For Erica Davies, the style editor and author – a diehard fan – a large part of the cocktail coat’s appeal is that it adds formality to an outfit, but in the most insouciant way. “I’ve always been inspired by vintage styles – I love the idea of going back to a time when a beautiful coat would be worn as part of your outfit to visit the opera or theatre. Then the eclectic style of Nineties Kate Moss and the character of Carrie Bradshaw in Sex and the City showed me how a cocktail coat can create a completely individual, unique sense of personal style.”
It’s true that those looking for tips on how to integrate a cocktail coat into their existing wardrobe need do no more than rewatch Sex and the City, for Carrie certainly provides something of a masterclass. Off screen, Olivia Colman, Charlotte Tilbury, Helena Bonham Carter and Kate Moss are fans. So too, is Anna Wintour, who was so enamoured by Loewe’s floor-length, vividly embroidered cocktail coat that she eschewed her habitual Chanel and wore it to the Met Gala – a high accolade indeed. Some critics even opined that it was her best Met look yet.
For those with deep pockets, Loewe, Prada and Dries Van Noten are all offering cocktail coats this season. So, too, is Valentino, whose chartreuse feather-trimmed crêpe de Chine robe is a showstopper. It’s also a heartstopper, at £9,800. At £5,500, Dolce & Gabbana’s belted chantilly lace cocktail coat still wouldn’t leave much over for a cocktail.
The good news: the high street has a slew of affordable options that will still enable you to buy a mojito or three. Zara in particular has come up trumps, though you’ll have to be quick: a cream version embellished with fluttering petals (£109) has already sold out. A similar fringed coat in claret is still available, as is a soft peach one embellished with rosettes and pearls (both £79.99). Other notable examples include River Island’s geometric satin duster coat (£65), and Faune’s ‘Carnation’ coat in oyster jacquard (£295), which was inspired by stylish Parisian flea market finds.
If the high street doesn’t have what you’re looking for, flea markets and vintage stores should provide rich pickings, since the cocktail coat probably had its heyday in the 1950s, though it resurged in the hippie 1970s, too. Anything with fringing or embroidery should pass muster, provided that it’s light and fluid: what you don’t want is a coat that’s heavy or stiff.
As for how to wear them – in many ways, that’s the easy part, since they will work as well with a cocktail gown as with a simple top and trousers. They even look great with jeans, though it would be advised to add a kitten heel rather than downplay the jeans further with trainers. “I love wearing them in quite an unexpected way, because I am a firm believer in not saving anything for best,” says Davies, who recently posted an Instagram tutorial to her 229,000 Instagram followers on this very topic. “They look great worn fairly casually – over denim and a tee, for example. It’s an easy way to make a simple outfit feel more elevated, adding a cocktail coat as a final layer. After all, putting your puffer coat over the top of your black tie dress might be practical, but it doesn’t really do the look justice.” Jane Fonda would agree.
Try these...
Cotton jacquard house coat, £295, Faune; Metallic trench coat, £175, Ghospell; Fringed coat, £79.99, Zara
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